a dispatch from
memphis
TN
35.15°N
90.05°W
Memphis is dry-rub ribs, Beale Street neon, and the rooms where Stax and Sun Records changed pop music forever. Graceland is a tourist pilgrimage that's still genuinely moving. The Mississippi rolls past, the National Civil Rights Museum at the Lorraine Motel is essential, and the BBQ debate (rib joints vs. the chopped-pork houses) is a local pastime. Soulful in the literal sense.



